A few days before I left Iran I made a day trip to Kerman (an old city in southeastern Iran). One of the first places I went was the Ganjali Khan Bath. Each section of the Bath was designated for a different group in society. Merchants, Clerics, Farmers, etc. They would bathe separately while enjoying fruits and smoking hookahs. The bath had an entrance from the bazaar, which sold a variety of spices, large pots, and crafts. As we walked through the bazaar, we stopped at a bath that was converted into a teahouse. I drank dark tea and listened to the musician play the daf and sing old Persian songs. He took requests from the crowd and even followed us to the exit, making sure we didn't leave before hearing the song of our choice.
We hired a driver, drove through the desert, and arrived at Bagh-e Shahzadeh. An oasis in the middle of a dry, mountainous region. The trees captured my eyes immediately. Beautiful, large trees. And somehow, in the middle of the desert, they are covered with bright green leaves and bare fruit. The palace was built during the Qajar Dynasty, and it now serves as a restaurant and garden. While I was there, a group of 20 tourists from New Zealand also made the trek to eat kebab and enjoy the view.
The Tomb of Shah Nematollah Vali (a Sufi poet and scholar) was surrounded by clear, green glass. People would pray and throw money through the slot. Alongside Tomans were wrinkled Washingtons and Lincolns. On our way out, I noticed two Sufis standing in the doorway of the entrance. They prayed before they took one step inside. Dressed in all white, both were adorned long, dark beards. They walked right by me. The younger of the two went up to one of trees, said hello, then kissed it. My heart swelled.
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